Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Korean Things I Have Eaten - Long Weekend Edition

Korea doesn't really 'do' Easter, at least there isn't a holiday for it. So while all my New Zealand (and Aussie) friends were talking about their trips to the beach I was suffering through regular days of work. Ugh.

Luckily, weird Korean holidays came to the rescue! Korea has Children's Day on May 5th and Parents' Day on May 8th, and my school gave me May 6th off so four day weekend, hurrah!

Initially my travel buddy and I intended to go to Jeju, Korea's "Hawaii" - an island off the South coast - but as the ferries were all booked out we ended up gallavanting around the countryside for a few days. And here's (part of) what we ate.

Sweet potato (or kumara to us Kiwi dudes) is readily available in Korea but it's not usually roasted and served with some kind of dead animal. Instead it's a dessert treat, dished up with coffee and rice cake and frequently dried out and gross. A few months ago I ordered a sweet potato latte from a coffee shop in town and it was revolting, like liquefied mashed lumpy kumara. Nevertheless, when I spotted this in a store near the train station I needed to eat it.

The Hangul translates to 'Thanks Kongo.' WHAAAT?
It's a roasted sweet potato ice block (note the hot coals on the wrapper) and I.... I kinda liked it. Clearly enjoying sweet potato flavoured desserts is a sign that I need to get the hell out of Korea and back to somewhere normal.

Purple 'skin' coating.
Continuing my culinary tour, I visited Woobang Land in Daegu. It's one of many theme parks scattered across Korea and I found that if you visit after 4pm it's super cheap. 14,000 won ($16.50) gets you a day pass and access to a whole bunch of matching couples! Photos of them to come soon, I promise. Between screaming my lungs out and being flung upside down I ate some Dippin' Dots. We don't have them in New Zealand but apparently they're global - ice cream mix is flash frozen in liquid nitrogen creating tiny dots which are stupidly cold and stupidly delicious. This particular variety is made from milk and honey and is refreshing and sweet.


Apologies for the look of cragee in my eyes in the next pic, for I had stumbled upon the Best Street Food of All Time! The Never Ending Potato Chip.

Not helping my diet.
This delectable treat is a spiral of potato, deep fried til crispy and then dipped in a cheese or bulgolgi (meat) or spicy powder. I had it once before in Seoul and it was AMAZING, this variation wasn't as crispy but still good.

And finally, on the packed train home from Daejeon I had this:

Google translate probably comes up with 'Drink of the Chunk'.
I'm starting to doubt you, formerly reliable internet tool.
This is Sikhye, or 'Korean Nostalgia Drink.' It's made by pouring malt water onto cooked rice, then boiling it with some sugar. I know! Gross right?

I actually really like it, despite Lauren stating that she '*expletive* hates that stuff.' Nostalgia tastes like very  sweet tea and has rice floating in it. Who knew?

I LOVE bubble tea and drinks with chunks so this is right up my alley, along with this blog called Drinks With Chunks. Isn't the internet amazing?!

Sikhye is usually served as a dessert, so I had it after my huuuuge slice of Costco Pizza, pictured above. For those of you in Korea, the Daejeon Costco is RIGHTNEXT to Seodaejeon station, and fortunately my lovely boyfriend was kind enough to sprint there and pick me up a slice of their cheese pizza. I know what you're thinking - but Anna, your oft-mentioned diet! I'd done several hours of sightseeing and a solid 45 minute block of pedal-boating that day, so I'd earned that sucker, and it was delicious.

맛있어요!

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Korea is Awesome = Outdoor Gyms

As I mentioned before, I'm trying to get fitter and healthier (when I'm not eating every weird thing on offer) and one of the awesome things about Korea is free outdoor gym equipment! 

Clockwise from far right: chest press, weird thing we once had at home in NZ, wheel thing for arm stretchiness, bouncy squat machine, machine for perfecting 'the twist',  torture device.
Low-budget elliptical trainer (l), swingy-legs thing with no exercise benefits (r)
These pictures were taken in a park in Yeoido, Seoul, but this stuff is all over the place! It crops up most frequently in parks and playgrounds but in Buan there's a few machines at the end of a trek along the rice paddies and on the top of the two big hills in town. They are usually occupied by older men and women as I think younger people are happier to splash out on a gym membership.

I've seen some amazing equipment on offer, the best park I saw was in Gunsan which had a 10kg weights machine, some gymnastic rings and a couple of bike machines amongst other machines skirting the edge of a soccer field. I know Karori Park has machines like this and I feel like it's something New Zealand should take note of. 

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Korean Things I Have Eaten - Drunken Snack Edition

A few weeks ago we went on a booze cruise in Incheon, and after a few hours of bouncing around the ocean in a thunderstorm, drinking boutique beer and making awkward conversations with strangers we got back on dry land in search of snacks.

Lining the streets of the more touristy parts of Korea are snack tents, usually manned by an ajumma and serving anything from chicken kebabs to dried octopus limbs. You take your pick from the array of snacks lined up and then they're dunked in a deep fryer for a few minutes and then handed over to your drunk self. The snacks are generally cheap - from 1,000 to 6,000 won, and an assortment of stuff can make up a decent dinner.

Photo nabbed from Seoul Eats. Clockwise from top left corner - tteokbokki, corn/hotdogs, mandu, deep-fried gim and noodles, mandu, battered vegetables, soondae. 
We weren't looking for proper food so we got a hot dog covered in chips. It costs 2,000 won ($2.30) and I think you call these corn dogs in the US.

Photo edited to protect the intoxicated.
The outside of these things is pretty good - crispy and starchy and who doesn't like tomato sauce? Unfortunately the middle is on the gross side. There's a sour taste and the bread sticks to your mouth, and the tiny frankfurter thing in the middle is usually still cold. Even while drunk I ended up throwing most of mine away. 

Instead, I got myself the most badass iceblock available. I love Korean ice blocks and icecream, and it seems like every shop has a different variety.

The hangul says 'Jyo-suh' - Jaws!
Apologies for the wonky angle, there was drunk taken.

Teeth!
Despite being grey this is a fruit flavoured ice block with pink strawberry sorbet in the middle. It's delicious and refreshing! 

맛있어요!

Friday, May 6, 2011

Getting My Money's Worth

As Anna's written about, trips to the doctor in Korea are cheap and strange. I don't want this post to turn into a diatribe of my half-formed opinions on healthcare policy, but I suspect there's a connection between the $5 charge for a doctor's visit and the fact that Koreans go to the doctor for everything. I ran into two of my students recently who were walking to "hospital" (this is a Korean word meaning "regular doctor's office which is in no way a hospital"). One of them was going to have a cast removed from his hand, which seems reasonable, except that he was wearing the cast because he's a football goalkeeper who stopped a ball with his bare hand. I used to play in goal and I know that you don't need a doctor to fix this, unless you need a doctor to tell you to shake your hand a bit while making a "hsssss" sound. The other student was going to the hospital for a bee sting. I don't think he was allergic since he was showing no signs of even mild discomfort. Oh, and he was walking there.

I also suspect a connection between cheap doctors, constant medicating of even the tiniest complaints, and the exorbitant cost of our compulsory medical insurance. Anyway, a couple of weeks ago I went to an internal medicine doctor to sort out my heartburn. The visit was brief and slightly unnerving, but in between strange jokes and complaints about how much more American doctors get to charge, he told me I'd have to come back for an endoscopy, which would involve sticking a camera down my throat and looking around.

I told my school I'd be late on Friday morning and went back to the clinic, where I discovered that the benefit of not being able to make an appointment means you get to wait for an hour unnecessarily. When I finally got into the doctor's office he asked me if I wanted an anesthetic for the endoscopy. The brief research I'd done online said that patients take a mild sedative and don't remember the procedure, and I wasn't really expecting an option. I was sold on the drugs when the doctor told me they would allow him to examine my stomach "precisely". 

At that he motioned for me to leave, so I went and sat in the hallway again. At this point I'll pass the story to the strange feverish narrative I scribbled in my dairy from what I would later discover was the recovery room. The full thing is long and meandering, so here's the edited highlights: 

I find myself in a small cubicle with an ornate vase motif on the wallpaper and a middle aged Korean man dozing in the other bed. I think I remember walking here from the other room where the procedure was supposed to happen. I decide I might as well get some sleep, since I seem to be stuck here. But there are loud voices outside the cubicle and I can't manage it. 

On closer inspection I realise the bed is just a raised platform a bit shorter and much narrower than a single bed. Around the outside is a cushioned border. The centre looks like a giant marble paving stone. The marble is heated. I do not know why I'm here. I wonder if I've been asleep on this platform. I vaguely recall being led here from the other room, but it is a hazy, dream-like memory. 

For a long time I was waiting for the nurse to come back and take me for the endoscopy. Now I think it has happened and I don't remember it. A nurse came in a few minutes ago and inspected the drip attached to my room mate. She took no notice of me. I feel no pain, but very disorientated. It is now eleven o'clock I think. I have been in here since ten at least. At 9:10 I was sent in to see the doctor. After some waiting around and a quick chat with him I was led into another room, a small curtained-off partition.  

The nurse had me lie on a small hospital bed. She placed a big green bib around my neck. Next was a squirt of something in my mouth. This I was instructed to swallow. It was gluey and dehydrating and made swallowing difficult afterwards as it lined my throat. Next was a spray of antibacterial tasting stuff. Then I got a small injection in my hand and the nurse disappeared. She was back a few minutes later with another injection. Then she got me to turn on my side and put a thing around my neck that sat in my mouth and kept it open. With this thing in I felt like I was choking. I was able to breathe, but I felt like I couldn't, because I couldn't close my mouth or swallow.Next thing I know a tube is being shoved down my throat.

My perspective: the tube is incredibly uncomfortable and way more than I can cope with. I thrash around and scream as much as I think is healthy with a tube down my throat. The nurse realises this is a horrible way to treat someone and takes out the tube. She leads me over to the weird recovery area with its heated slab.

I think the next bit was going to be the nurses perspective, but I was interrupted and sent back to the doctor's office. What I think really happened is this: the injection was the sedative, and while it was working the nurse set up the procedure. I made some mumbling noises and then dozed off, only to awaken as they were removing the tube. The nurse led me to the recovery room so that I could experience the crazy that the sedative apparently causes while scribbling in a notebook in a hospital ward, rather than wandering around in public trying to teach English and getting run over (which would mean going back to the hospital anyway.) 

I went and saw the doctor, who showed me this photo:

"It looks like a butt" - Anna.
That's what my stomach looks like, which I'm sure you've been dying to see. In hindsight, I should've asked the doctor more questions than "Can I have a copy of that?" He told me I have reflux esophogitis. The circled part in the top photo is apparently the cause of the problem. This can be cured by taking medicine for three months, so because this is Korea he gave me a prescription for ten days. That means I get to go back there every couple of weeks, sit in his waiting room for an hour with the ajumas and listen to his bizarre jokes.

The other thing that's wrong with me is some pretty horrible migraines. I've had them a lot since getting here, and though they're not as bad as what I know some people have, there pretty debilitating and I get some symptoms most days. Since every doctor here is a specialist, I had to go to the neurologist for this. I've been here a few times before and spoken to a couple of different doctors, neither of whom seemed interested in giving me medicine strong enough to actually fix the problem, but I thought I'd try again. 

When I go here, the five receptionists always giggle and try to fob me off on each other, even though all they have to do is look at my health insurance card and motion for me to sit down and wait. They do the same thing when it's time to pay, even though I understand Korean numbers and 감사합니다 (thank you), which is all they need. This is something I've gotten used to, people being afraid of dealing with me even when it doesn't involve speaking English or doing anything they don't do a hundred times a day anyway.

Today's doctor was a bald, middle aged twelve year old with a nice smile. He spoke less English than the other doctors I've visited in Buan, but he was able to get the gist of what I needed. I tried to ask about some medicine that other English teachers had recommended, but the nurse who's always in the room and whose only job seems to be looking up drugs on the computer couldn't find it. He said he would give me a prescription for five days (again, fantastic for a long-term condition). He also said I would need to have an injection. I wondered if they would do it at the clinic, or if I had to do it myself at home, so I asked: "Do we do it here?" and pointed at the floor. He replied: "No, in the butt." 

The nurse led me into the next room where another nurse looked at me sheepishly and told me to pull down my pants. If you read Anna's post about the doctor then you already know that they slap you on the butt before they stick the needle in, so I was prepared for that. I wasn't prepared for her to keep spanking me once the injection was done though. It was pretty weird, but at least she had the decency to look embarrassed about it.   

I went and did my follow up visits to both of these doctors the other day, and also went to the ENT doctor with the open plan office to get something for a cough that doesn't seem to go away no matter how much I ignore it. I came back with this impressive array of mystery pills.


That's still only about a week's worth though, so it looks like I'll be seeing a lot more of the doctors.

Korean Things I Have Eaten

Despite my constant food posts I am trying to eat healthier food in Korea and boiled eggs are my current snack of choice. Not just any boiled eggs, these babies are smoked.

For 1,200 won ($1.50) you can get two eggs, they can be found at most convenience stores in Korea (Family Mart, Mini Stop etc).


Crack them open and they're a brownish colour inside. Because they're smoked they have a different texture than normal boiled eggs which could be a bit off-putting. They're still delicious!

NOM
맛있어요!

Thursday, May 5, 2011

You've Got to Get Down to Korean Barbecue

I LOVE Korean food, it's cheap and delicious and surprisingly available throughout Korea (the only other options in Buan are pizza, fried chicken and 'Italian' food.) By far my favourite Korean eating activity is Korean Barbecue.  

Korean Barbecue was actually one of the first things we ate in Korea. I remember freaking out about it as I wanted to make a good impression and I hadn't eaten meat for 12 years at that point. We've written before about the 'process' of eating Korean food - see Bibimbap and Dakgalbi - and barbecue has steps too. 

First, choose your meat. There's usually two types of meat on the menu - Galbi (marinated pork or beef short ribs) or Samgyeopsal (pork belly) and a variety of banchan (side dishes) including lettuce or sesame leaves. I prefer galbi as it's less fatty and more delicious. 

Normally you'd order your meat off the menu but this edition of Karori to Korea comes to you from King Kong Meat Town in Yeongtong, Suwon. Meat Town is a meat buffet where for 14,000 won ($16.50) you can eat your fill of galbi, samgyeopsal, beef and burgers. At a regular barbecue restaurant, galbi is about 9,000 won ($11) for one serve of meat and your banchan, and there are galbi restaurants all over Korea.

Here's the buffet :

MMEEEEAAAAATTT!
Once your meat arrives, load up the grill. There will be a chimney either suspended from the ceiling or attached to the table to funnel the smoke away. The ones in Meat Town can't handle all the grilling going on, and the restaurant is usually full of smoke by the time we leave. The grills are sometimes gas powered but usually the staff will bring in a metal bowl full of hot coals and change it about halfway through your meal.



In the spare bits of the grill, chuck on some kimchi, garlic and onions if they're available. Koreans usually eat galbi with raw garlic (good for your health!) but grilled garlic (and grilled kimchi) is too delicious to pass up.

Heather is modelling a giant piece of kimchi. You can see the banchan and sauces in the back.
The staff will supply you with some tongs and a pair of scissors - amazing bbq tools! Once your meat is cooked, simply snip it into bite-sized pieces and start making your own galbi parcels. 

Second step is choosing a leaf and some meat. Hold your lettuce in one hand and put some meat in the middle, like so:


Next, add your sauces and banchan. There's usually two sauces available - ssamjang, a spicy red sauce and gireumjang which is a mix of sesame oil and salt. Gireumjang is more of a dipping sauce and I like my food spicy so I usually eat the ssamjang. 

You can add anything you want from the banchan dishes. A little bit of onion, a few slices of garlic, some bean sprouts, some pickled turnip. It all depends on what's on the table and how big your lettuce leaf is. 

YUUUUUUMMMM
Finally, you need to wrap it all up into a ball, and shove the whole thing in your mouth. Masshiseyo! 


Washed down with some soju and beer, Korean Barbecue is definitely my favourite way to spend a Friday night in Korea. 

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Belated and Obligatory Spring Blossom Photo Post

As my kids learned last week, Korea had four seasons (Okay, they learned how to say it in English), and we're finally out of HORRIBLE winter and in to gorgeous spring. This means cherry blossoms, and lots of them. Loads of pictures below:








I get the boot off today. It's been 5 weeks. FIVE WEEKS. Agh. Anyway, blossoms!

Korean Convenience - Coffee!

Tom can't drink coffee and I don't have it very often, but when friends gave me this coffee kit I was keen to give it a go. You need:
  • Kona Hazelnut coffee kit
  • A mug
  • Boiling water

 That little pouch holds the coffee. You tear off the top, fold out the cardboard and viola! Mini hand-drip filter in your cup.

Say it with me: cuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuute!
 Just add water and you've got yourself some coffee:


It's the cute and kitsch element of the coffee that appeals to me. The coffee itself (like most Korean coffee) is weak and weird. I can imagine Richard P's cries of disgust if we sent it home to NZ. Perhaps an idea for the next parcel?

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Korean Things I Have Eaten - Seoul Trip Edition

Welcome to the second edition of Korean Things I Have Eaten. I bet you sure are glad you've continued to read this blog! 

We caught the train up to Suwon last Friday to hand out with our friends before a boat trip in Incheon on Saturday. As we were planning on eating dinner in Suwon when we arrived (about 8:30pm) I needed a little something to take the edge off the hunger.

Korean train food is comprised mostly of chips, biscuits and dried squid. One day I'll be brave enough to sample the squid for you but last Friday was not that day, so I got these instead:

I can read the hangul but Google Translate can't translate it. Best I got is 'After Heine rangkeu'.
They're little frankfurters which you unwrap by pulling the red plastic on one side, like so:


The franks taste like those little sausages you get in cans of Watties Spaghetti, but without delicious tomato sauce flavouring. Tom describes these as 'revolting' but I think they're passable and they can't be worse than the squid. 

What goes well with small frankfurters? Beer of course! Korea is delightfully lax about when and where you can drink which is still entertaining to us 8 months on.


Fast-forward to the next morning, and we were heading into Seoul for a day of eating Western food and then the boat cruise. Tom bought some samgak (triangle) gimbap (Korean sushi) for breakfast and we got some of the famous Korean 'service.' 

You know how in New Zealand, sometimes you buy a magazine and you get a free sample of face cream or sometimes you hit the jackpot and you get a lip gloss or something? Korea has taken this to another level and sometimes a weird level. Service extends from make-up shops - where with my purchase of three $1 nail polishes I got face cream, mascara and a huge box of cotton wipes, to the supermarket - bonus bowl with my cereal? Yes please! - to the ajosshi I buy our oranges from, who toss in a few for free saying 'serbis-see!' as an explanation. We got enough 'service' washing powder from our first trip to the supermarket in August that we only ran out yesterday.  
Nabbed from www.roketship.com, this one is great too!
Anyway, we got comped a few drinks with Tom's gimbap and as he didn't want them they were handed over to me. The first is Lotte's The Dream of Tea.

I didn't actually drink this until later in the evening, when I'd been served a particularly strong vodka and soda and was grappling around in my bag for something to cut it with. It's a mildly sweet Ceylon iced tea, and as I love iced tea like I love trying weird food in Korea, I utterly recommend it. Good for mixing too. 

The next one is Milkis, the new feeling of soda beverage:


Our friend Lauren tried this a few months ago and proclaimed it to be disgusting, so I avoided it for ages until curiosity attacked me and wrestled me to the ground. I love it! It's a milky-flavoured soft drink which probably sounds revolting, but it tastes a lot like a spider or float or whatever your region calls it when you mix carbonated beverages with ice cream and then drink it. It also comes in iceblock form for the super cheap price of 200 won (25c) from the dairy near our apartment. 

Until next time, 맛있어요!

Monday, May 2, 2011

Spotted in Seoul

I love Seoul. I love Seoul so much that I have spent about 50% of my weekends there, and sometimes I wish we lived there except that I'd spend far too much money. One of the terrible things about Buan is that there isn't much to do during the week in town, and one of the excellent things about Buan if you want to save money is that there isn't much to do during the week in town. This makes my trips to Seoul very special, and even more special when I see haircuts like this:


That is a mullet which is permed in the middle and straightened at the front and back. Amazing.

Fortunately I have awesome friends who allow me to get slightly closer pictures of such spectacles:


Isn't it magnificent? The next time I get my hair cut, I'm taking these pictures in with me.